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COLLECTION TRACKING:

Madison, Wisconsin, with John Gruber


Milwaukee Road train no. 117, The Varsity, arrives in Madison, Wisconsin, on December, 1963. Photograph by John Gruber, Gruber-05-54-003
A Wisconsin & Southern freight train crosses Monona Bay in Madison, Wisconsin, on September 13, 2013. Photograph by Scott Lothes

By Scott Lothes

Madison, Wisconsin, might be the only place in the world where two railroad lines cross at grade on causeways in the middle of a lake. The Badger State’s capital city is also home to the Center for Railroad Photography & Art’s offices and archives, and that’s because of John Gruber, our principal founder. Gruber (1936-2018) came to Madison to attend the University of Wisconsin and made the city his home for the rest of his life, photographing its railroads extensively all along the way. In 2011, I moved to Madison to become the Center’s full-time executive director and have been here ever since…and I sometimes photograph the railroads that remain.

Introducing this blog

Photography is a way of capturing particular moments at particular places, and I find special meaning in synergies between photographs that share common threads. While our collections at the Center for Railroad Photography & Art span the globe, many of the places depicted in them have called out to photographers (and other artists) across generations. As our archive continues to grow, I find more and more images of scenes where I have also aimed a camera. And I keep adding to this alignment myself, by continuing to travel and visit railways in more places, often following in the footsteps—both intentionally and serendipitously—of photographers whose work is now part of our collection.

To provide a forum for investigating some of these photographic intersections, we’re launching this blog—which we’ve decided to call “Collection Tracking.” In each of my posts, I’ll compare photographs from our collections with my own from the same place. We also welcome (and heartily encourage) guest contributions; if you have an idea, please reach out by email to scott [at] railphoto-art.org. We’re always looking for more ways for you to engage with the images in our collections and to make connections between historic and contemporary photographs. 

Topographical map of Madison, Wisconsin, as it appeared in 1959. Monona Crossing is in the center. Map from the United States Geological Survey.

The location

Downtown Madison, Wisconsin, is on an isthmus, a glacial drumlin on a northeast-southwest axis with Lake Mendota to the northwest and Lake Monona to the southeast. When the first railroad arrived in Madison in 1854—Milwaukee Road predecessor Milwaukee & Mississippi—the most practical direct route onto the isthmus took the tracks across a bay at the western edge of Lake Monona. Ten years later, the Chicago & North Western also crossed that bay—on a different angle that also forced them to cross the earlier line, creating the diamond in the lake. 

Both railroads called the location Monona Crossing, MX for short. Traffic on the Chicago & North Western grew heavy enough for two tracks, and a tower stood in the southern quadrant until the mid 1950s. Even after it came down and North Western removed its second track, the location has remained compelling. 

The photographs

The first pair of images begins with John Gruber’s winter view of Milwaukee Road passenger train no. 117, The Varsity, crossing frozen Monona Bay while rolling off the last mile of its 140-mile run from Chicago on December 12, 1963. The train includes a full-length dome car, and the rear car is passing a signal that protects with the diamond with the Chicago & North Western, out of frame to the right. In the distance stands the Wisconsin State Capitol, completed in 1917 and the third on the site. To its left is St. Raphael’s Cathedral, built in the 1850s with a spire added in 1885. It was burned by arson in 2005 and had to be demolished. 

My photograph shows a Wisconsin & Southern train at the same location fifty years later on September 13, 2013. Two locomotives haul 100 empty covered hoppers west toward Prairie du Chien where they will be loaded with sand for use in hydraulic fracturing. The capitol still dominates the skyline; state laws dating back to 1921 limit the height of other buildings in the vicinity.

The second pair of photographs shows the Milwaukee Road’s 1903 depot at West Washington Avenue, half a mile beyond Monona Bay. John Gruber climbed the crossing guard’s tower for his photograph on February 11, 1956, with train 106 preparing to depart for Milwaukee. At the time, the street crossed twelve tracks that saw dozens of train movements everyday—creating a major bottleneck for automobiles. In my drone view from September 24, 2025, a grain train heads east on the one track that remains. The Southwest Commuter Path runs through the former rail yard; the depot now houses Motorless Motion Bicycles and Bandit Tacos and Coffee. 

Above: Milwaukee Road train no. 106 prepares to depart Madison, Wisconsin, for Milwaukee on February 11, 1956. Photograph by John Gruber, Gruber-01-046-02

Below: A Wisconsin & Southern grain train passes the former Milwaukee Road depot in Madison, Wisconsin, on September 24, 2025. Photograph by Scott Lothes

The third and final image pairing returns to Monona Bay, where Gruber walked out to the diamond on Saturday, September 9, 1961. He stood on the North Western track looking south (east by the railroad timetable) and photographed The Varsity, train no. 118, heading back to Chicago. It was one of two pairs of Milwaukee Road trains still running between Madison and Chicago; both would continue until Amtrak took over—without Madison in its national route map—on May 1, 1971. 

On Saturday, August 16, 2025, a Wisconsin & Southern grain train followed the same route the Varsity took sixty-four years earlier, heading for Janesville and ultimately Chicago on the former Milwaukee Road. Commemorative locomotives for the railroad’s 40th and 35th anniversaries—in 2020 and 2015, respectively—lead the train. The former Chicago & North Western exits the frame at left; local freight trains continue to use it a few times a week to serve a Lycon aggregates facility in Oregon, nine miles away. A connecting track, visible above the first covered hopper car, now joins the two lines and is the route most Wisconsin & Southern traffic takes. 

Since 1967, John Nolan Drive (named for a significant urban planner in Madison) has curved along the railroad causeways, separating Monona Bay from Lake Monona. Fishing remains popular, from the bicyclists in Gruber’s photograph to the kayakers in mine. There are far fewer trains in the 2020s than in the 1960s, but our capabilities for photographing them have advanced tremendously. I made my image with a drone—unimaginable technology in the 1960s. 

Photography can help preserve images of the past while also providing ways to interpret today’s world. Making connections between photographs from different times at common locations can increase our understanding of the images themselves as well as the subjects they depict while enriching the continuum of railroad photography. We look forward to more “collection tracking” and welcome your suggestions and submissions. Browse our digital collections for ideas or get in touch with us to research the rest of our ever-growing archive.

Stay tuned for future installments here; we’re already working on posts featuring Wallace W. Abbey in Chicago, Karl Zimmermann in Switzerland, and Richard Steinheimer in the Mojave Desert. Join our mailing list to be alerted of future blog posts.

Milwaukee Road train no. 118, The Varsity, leaves Madison, Wisconsin, on September 9, 1961. Photograph by John Gruber, Gruber-03-036-2-52
A Wisconsin & Southern grain train crosses Monona Bay in Madison, Wisconsin, on August 16, 2025. Photograph by Scott Lothes

Current map

Current map of railroads in Monona Bay in Madison, Wisconsin, from OpenRailwayMap.org. Click to open their site in a new tab.

For more

The Madison Trust for Historic Preservation is offering walking tours of Madison’s “West Rail Corridor” in their 2026 season; learn more.

View more than 200 of John Gruber’s photographs from Madison, Wisconsin, on our online collections database.

Read Scott’s article about John’s Milwaukee Road photography from Madison in issue 2026-2 of The Milwaukee Railroader.

View Scott’s presentation about railroads in Madison and Dane County on the PBS-Wisconsin YouTube channel.

←David Kahler, 1937-2026

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Railfans ride a Mid-Continent Railway Museum caboose in North Freedom, Wisconsin, in May 1963. Photograph by John Gruber, Gruber-05-021-0003

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